i had such a great time surfing with Oniyanagi-san. a very kind man with a kind heart.
and a very good surfer!
this was that dream session on sunday. just Oniyanagi-san and i surfing perfect bowls rights during the contest. then a japanese surfer girl came out and it was just the 3 of us catching wave after wave. nobody around to bother us.
Kyoko-san surfed really good. good style and good timing on catching the waves.
yes, we were very happy surfing a sunday with only the 3 of us out!
Oniyanagi-san walking to the nose. i don’t know when or if we will ever get a perfect right to ourselves again. it’s just one of those magical moments in life. enjoy it!
thank you Oniyanagi-san for the Buden Shouten tshirt! keep on surfing and hope to surf with you again!