wow, today was a marathon day for me at backdoor. i got there at 6:30 am, paddled out at dark, surfed for 2 hours, shot for 1 hour, surfed again for 2 hours, and shot again for 2 hours. yes, i was there for 7 hours!!! sunburnt and so tired that i don’t even know how i’m doing a blog now…
somebody asked me how i feel before i jump in the water. umm… well, as i walk through the path to check the waves, i see this. and to see one of my good friend matchi getting barreled gets me excited. so excited that i can’t wait to get mine….
it’s been a while since i seen shuji kasuya. back in the days, we use to see each other in the water everyday. but since we’re grow up and have other responsibilities, surfing together is rare. today was a rare day and i seen him get some pretty nice barrels!
nishizeko-san on the right, and kenji sahara on the left! kenji swam in the water for 4 hours today and that’s really hard work. good job kenji!!!
kohei chiba on a solid 5′ backdoor bomb!
hayato maki with the new Dove Wetsuit! i better go order mine today!!! nice turn hayato but the next sequence shot after this is much better. stay tuned.
gai sato came out of the water and sat on the beach. i asked him “what happened?” he said, “i can’t find a good left.” i said “hey, go sit right between backdoor and off the wall and go right. nobody is there now.” he said “ok.” he paddled back out, caught this right, and got barreled. wait till you see the awesome shot i got!!!
**many many more photos coming! and full gallery on GO-NAMINORI.COM coming soon. going to sleep. sweet dreams….
