Surf, Say Goodbye, Paddle

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photo 1
i went into my garage and pulled out my paddle board this morning. the last time i used it was when i paddled from makapuu to waikiki. the next time i use it will be to paddle from molokai to oahu. am i ready? probably not. will i go? probably.
photo 2 copy
i wash it off, throw it in the truck, strap it on Mayuki, and just wonder when that day will come. this is something i have to do before i die. something i’ve dreamt about over and over, something i just need to do to complete my life.
photo 3
i had a funeral to attend this morning. i knew it was going to be sad so i wanted to open up my soul. and the only way is to go surfing. so before the sadness, i had to have happiness. i caught some perfect waves today at bowls!
photo 4
i knew Chris McDonald ever since i got my first car. he was a owner/partner at Security Alarm Shop and helped me throughout the years. we became friends and every time i see Chris, we would talk about surfing or japan, nothing else. such a kind man, such a respected man, and such a great role mode. i will surely miss his smile, and i’m sure his wife and 2 kids he left behind will too. as i sat at his funeral, i could only think of the good things this wonderful man did for people. he will surely be missed.
photo 5
after a sad funeral, i had to get happy by eating my favorite ginger chicken plate from Duck Kee. then i went back out into the ocean to open back up my heart and soul.
death is sad, but if you can just hold on to those precious moments you spent with that person, then it’s all good. today really made me think about my life. there are just too many things i have to do before i die. and now i will strive forward to make my life complete. and if in the meantime i don’t make it, you will all know that i tried my hardest.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide