Hawaii Surf Story 1: Rikiya Kitada

693

since everybody’s doing blogs now and pretty much looking like the same, i decided to go even deeper. i’m going to look for a situation, shoot it, and tell a story. something you might be interested in. this is story 1 starring Rikiya Kitada….

i was stoked to see rikiya in the water the other day. a happy guy, great surfer, and always smiling. i was shooting and seen him paddle for a wave. he takes off, looks in front of him, sees a guy paddling back out, he still pulls in, and runs the guy over. i was going “oh, my gosh, are they ok?”

they came up with boards tangled up. i kept on watching to see if they were ok…

here comes another wave, BOOM!!! are they ok?

they both paddled in together. i was thinking “maybe fight?” i had my camera ready to bash the guy in the head if he tried anything to rikiya. then rikiya told him, “hey kook, get out of my way next time before i kick your ass.” the guy said “no thank you, i want peace”[:?????§???:]wow!! go rikiya!! no, i’m just joking….

rikiya shook the guys hand, they both said sorry, and walked away….

rikiya checked his brand new board for damage….

no damage so rikiya’s became rikiya, a happy person….
moral of the story? if you see rikiya taking off on any wave, get the heck out of his way because he’s pulling in no matter what. haha…
stay tuned for Hawaii Surf Story 2…..

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide