pulling up to the north shore and seeing the dirty brown water is disappointing. when will it clear up????
yesterday’s barrels were as round as it gets out at pipeline. you could fit a car in there….
there were absolutely zero photographers in the water. why? because everybody was probably too scared. would i have swam out? probably not. then i see kamio walking down the beach. this guy has balls! paddling out to huge pipe with a surfboard is easy. swimming out with your $5,000 camera gear is crazy. it takes BIG BALLS! i did it a few times and you have to mentally prepared to die. every 15′ set your swimming under, your praying. i’m freaking serious…. i give kamio a lot of credit and can’t wait to see some of the photos he took….
