sunday was supposed to be the day when the new south swell arrived. i surfed in the morning and it seemed like it was trying to come up. then when i went to check diamond head in the evening, the waves were still small but i could see the energy of the new swell in the ocean. it was coming out of the south/west.
then i checked it again around 8pm and the ocean was moving. it’s going to be a nice solid swell with lots of energy lasting for a week. stoked!
every third wednesday of the month is bulky pickup in hawaii. that’s when you leave your big items on the sidewalk and the city dump trucks come and take it away. i was at diamond head and somebody had thrown away these precious tansu! the looks and smell reminded me of my Grandma Osaki! i stop, take a look, and felt like my Grandma was right there with me. it was a weird experience.
this small one was in perfect condition! how could somebody throw this away? this is pure japanese art and to destroy it would be a shame! so i pick it up, throw it in the truck, and bring it home.
my Grandma use to put her small sake cups and small chopstick holders in these drawers. when i was like 5 years old, we use to take it out and play with it. Grandma use to scold us but we would do it anyway. so bringing this home is like bringing back memories of my grandma. i can’t believe i found this treasure and i’m going to keep this till i die.
yes, the waves have been absolutely perfect! it’s the perfect summer here in hawaii.
Yuki-san on a big wave!
Inaida-san with perfect balance!
surfing all day everyday until i leave next monday. then hopefully i can find some more waves in japan and keep on surfing! hope you are getting great waves too!
