i surfed big rights yesterday evening with shaper Glenn Minami. we talked about surfboards and today i went by his shaping room to talk more about surfboards.
i showed him the magic board he shaped for me and we were looking at every single curve of foam. i’ve rode over a thousand surfboards and every single one worked different. just a 1/32 of an inch or 0.07 cm can make a board work much differently. it’s like a science and all we do is try to make the next one even better. if you want a magic board, you have to know what you’re looking for and have to work closely with your shaper. it’s very important! Glenn Minami has been shaping for top professional surfers in the world for the past 40 years. i’m so happy to have such an experienced hawaiian shaper handcrafting my boards. magic hands equals magic boards!
ate a really good beef broccoli with rice plate today before my 3.5 hour barrel surf session. i went out to big rights looking only for the barrel and got barreled 8 times! a very happy surf session for me!
then after so sunburnt and tired, the anchor got stuck 40 feet deep. OMG! i had to control the boat, dive down to untangle the anchor off the reef, come back up, and pull it up all within a minute. i was even more tired after that.
i drove by bowls and it was still pumping! wave after wave and barrel after barrel. pretty crowded too so i made a good choice going to big rights because it was super uncrowded again today.
not sure who this was but nice grab rail barrel.
still going!
but never made it out.
so the waves came down a little from yesterday but it was still very consistent. tomorrow will drop even more but expect some freak 4′ sets every once in a while. had another long day and ready for bed. good night and surf your dream!
