good evening. it was another backdoor day. big and dangerous. the kind of day where one mistake could lead you to the hospital. luckily nobody got hurt while i was there….
**ok, here we go with Hawaii Surf Story 2 by me…
i get to backdoor early and see 2 japanese out. who is that? i was wondering but figured i’d better document this because there were no other photographers on the beach. i shot for a little while captured 2 banzai brothers charging hard! yeah, these two guys aren’t your typical japanese superstar surfers. in fact, not too many people probably know them. these are the hard core underground surfers that deserve recognition so that’s what i’m going to do now…..
Atsushi Fujimura has been in hawaii for a while. i see this guy everywhere from knee high diamond head to 15′ sunset. he’s underground and doesn’t give a shit about photos or contest results. atsushi just wants to surf! i seen him get 3 really nice pipe waves and if your a japanese surfer and can get 3 nice waves in one session, your the man. good job atsushi….
today, backdoor was evil. a lot of surfers came to check backdoor this morning and said “no thank you.” as i was checking, i seen this guy with a helmet charging really hard on the big ones that nobody else wanted. that guy is Dan Kakai. to tell you the truth, i haven’t heard of this guy before but now, i won’t forget what i seen this morning. Dan the man…. and wait till you see another photo i got of dan this morning. cover shot kind….
with the good ones, come the bad ones. atsushi’s probably thinking to himself “wow, check me out, i’m going to get the pounding of my life. mr. wave, please be nice to me!”
like i said, the good ones come with the bad ones. dan’t probably thinking to himself “hey guys, get out of my way before i give you a karate kid chop!”
2 banzai brothers atsushi and dan. you guy impressed me this morning. see you out there tomorrow!!!
**who wants to be in Hawaii Surf Story 3?
