duck diving is like an art. for shortboarders, it’s something cool to do. just going under a wave with your board flowing with the ocean. it’s fun, feels good, and prevents you from getting pounded by waves.
here is Kamijima-san doing the perfect duck dive yesterday. see how perfect he’s ducking under the wave. that’s where you want to be.
as for long boarding, it’s different. it’s impossible to push such a big board underwater so the best thing to do when a big wave comes is to throw your board on the side and dive under. it’s safe, easy, and feels so good! Inaida-san has it to perfection and even a 5′ wave isn’t too big for him anymore.
Yuki-san too does it perfect. it takes a while to figure out the timing and gain the confidence to do it but once you do, it makes surfing so much easier.
WARNING: if you ever see me and my longboard friends in the water, DO NOT paddle behind any one of us because i train everybody to throw the board when a big wave comes. and if you are behind, you will get HIT!!! figure out that a surfboard is 9′, add the 9′ leash span, and you have 18′. so stay way behind. i’ve seen many people get hurt and if you are behind, you are at fault. simple.
