kenji sahara took this photo of me standing on the beach at pipeline last year. i love it…. and when ever i see it, i start to miss hawaii. the weather, the waves, my bed, my car, and all the aloha… been in japan for 1 week. flat waves. good for the kids to surf but way to small for me even to stand up. i did 2 days of stand-up paddling and but i miss getting barreled in my surf trunks…. ahhhh… that’s the way i’m feeling right now. but once i see a big sashimi platter, or some sushi, or a nice hot ramen in front of me, i’m not homesick at all.. haha…
**i was looking at yoko furuichi’s and yuko shimijiri’s blogs today and they are both in hawaii. i’m a little jealous…. wish i was there… now i’m starting to feel a little home sick again. i’m better go eat some good food right now…. good night…
CLICK HERE FOR YOKO FURUICHI’S BLOG….
CLICK HERE FOR YUKO SHIMIJIRI’S BLOG…
**and last, check out this interview i did with legendary shaper/surfer/coach ben aipa. bumped into ben one day when i went to check bowls. he use to be my coach and taught me a lot. in fact, ben coached most of the pro’s coming out of hawaii in the days. including world champion sunny garcia…
