today was an awesome day. started up at 3am and drove 3 hours to the other side of shikoku. i could smell the salt air from the water and hear the waves breaking in the dark as i drove along the beach coast. i had my hawaiian music keeping me awake. then when i pulled up to the spot as it started to get lighted, i couldn’t believe how solid the swell was. everybody was expecting head high for this typhoon but it was way over that. solid 5′ and maybe some 6′ freak sets. but the best ones would be in the inside along the sandbar. the only problem was waiting there and getting hit by ghost sets. broken boards, leashes, and some panic at times. i surfed 3 rounds and am totally surfed out, burnt, and so happy. threw my board back in the van at 3pm, drove 3 hours to the ferry port, and now i’m sitting on the ferry downloading photos from today. gotta be back in tokyo tomorrow so had to leave. tomorrow morning will be good too but i’ll try to find some surf on the way home.
imagine catching an airplane, driving for hours, and pulling up to this? this is the part of surfing i love the most. it’s total excitement and i’m actually shaking when i’m waxing up my board. i’m pretty sure this was the best spot in all japan today and i was very happy to be there. river mouth barrels!
here’s even a better photo. there weren’t too many of these but when you find one, you will scream!
wanted to thank Matchi for buying me lunch today. we went to eat katsuo tataki and it was so good!
the drive home was awesome! i took the back expressway that i’ve never been on before. the scenery was amazing! driving for 2 hours on the expressway listening to neil diamond over and over. i was in a great place!
going to take a nap and once i arrive in wakayama, i’m going to drink a nice cold draft beer. then sleep, wake up early, quick surf, and jump on the train back to the concrete jungle. i love it all!
