How to Surf: by Renosuke Kimura

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i’ve taught thousands of people how to surf. and each and every time, i start off with the basic 1, 2, 3’s. from 1 year old kids to 75 year old adults, it’s all the same. so lets take this time to learn from a 7 year old kid named Renosuke Kimura.
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first, you have to carry your own surfboard. yes, this surfboard is huge and heavy, but if a 7 year old kid can carry it, so can you. you put it on your head and as long as you have it well balanced, it’s light and easy. good boy Renosuke!
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this is the 1 of surfing. look forward and put your hands next to your chest. and remember always to look forward! good boy Renosuke!
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this is the 2 of surfing. if you are a regular foot, put your left foot under your chest. if your goofy foot, your right foot goes under your chest. and remember to keep looking forward! good boy Renosuke!
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this is the 3 of surfing. let go the board and stand up. keep your arms out for balance, keep your knees bent for stability, and most important, look forward! good boy Renosuke!
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i push him on his first wave and he did exactly what we learned on the beach. 1, 2, 3, bent knees, and looking forward. this is perfect surfing! good boy Renosuke! i can’t wait to surf with you again!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide