i had such a great time surfing with Uchiyama-san this morning. a hard core surfer from Chigasaki that’s been surfing half of his entire life. super good to surf the reef at bowls as the waves were super perfect!
nice bottom turn. when you can set your rail in the water like this, you will see the spray coming off the back. it feels so dam good!
yes, the waves were solid and super fun! great surfing Uchiyama-san!
ok, who’s the tourist? i think i was more excited than Uchiyama-san today. i couldn’t believe how happy i was after i caught my first wave. i was so excited the whole session! great to be back home!
then i took Mr. and Mrs. Uchiyama-san sightseeing. first check, diamond head. the waves at lighthouse looked super good!
then up to tantalus. i swear this view is looking better and better each time i go up there. what a beautiful day and what a beautiful island.
i don’t know anywhere else in the world that has a better view than this. we say “breathtaking!”
and a panorama shot for memories. thank you Mr. and Mrs. Uchiyama-san for a wonderful day in hawaii.
i always tell my friends here in hawaii, “you will never appreciate hawaii unless you leave hawaii.” every time i come back, i feel refreshed and excited to get back to work. can’t wait till tomorrow! good night.
