for the past 5 years, i’ve been taking the Matsuda-san family surfing here in hawaii. such a super kind and very nice surf family. we had such a great time today as usual.
Kaito-kun was only 6 years old when we first surfed. that was about the same age i caught my first wave that i will never forget. up until last year, we’ve been riding together. today, he was on his own. a super cute kid so excited to get on the board. smiling all the way out and all the way in. gosh, i wish i can keep this kid. he’s so cute!!!
first wave, he just jumped up, rode the wave, and felt the stoke. you should have seen his facial expression. just so excited!
then Kaito-kun wanted more and more. only 11 years old and surfing in hawaii for almost half his life.
after we caught this wave, we paddled back out together. then he told me as he looked at diamond head, “diamond head is so green! it’s so beautiful.” a young boy absorbing nature is precious.
and after every wave, Kaito-kun kept on telling me “arigato gozaimasu.” so kind, so respectful, and so well mannered. just like his parents.
Matsuda-san did a great job too. he surfed 2 rounds and was stoked! the waves were perfect and it was such a beautiful day.
a natural smile and natural moment that will last a lifetime.
then Sachiko-san surfing so good too! i was so happy to see everybody surfing better and better each year. such a cool mother to such a cute kid.
then we went to Cafe Kaila and had a great brunch. five years i’ve known this wonderful family and i’m really happy to be part of their wonderful hawaiian surfing life.
french toast with strawberries and blueberries. this was excellent.
bacon lettuce tomato sandwich. super good.
the eggs benedict was Kaito-kun’s favorite. mine too.
and of course, the pancakes with apple and strawberries.
i surfed in the morning, ate a great lunch, surfed in the afternoon, ate a great dinner. not i’m home at 9:30pm and i’m ready for a great sleep. tomorrow i’m going to try to surf this hurricane.
to the people in hawaii, please stay calm and stop buying all the water in every single store. omg, relax!!!
