Hawaii Hurricane: The Day Before

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as you all know, the big news is the hurricane coming to hawaii. it’s been 22 years since hawaii got hit by a hurricane but in that time, i was in about 40 super typhoons in japan. typhoons that would make this hurricane look like a passing shower. while the whole island is at panic mode, i’m only thinking about the waves. i love chasing typhoons and a hurricane is the same thing. the waves will be good but you have to know where to go. when i wake up, i’m going searching for that perfect wave. if i get some, great. if i don’t, great too. it’s a gamble that is worth the risk for us typhoon chasing surfers.
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i went out this morning on Mayuki before i had to tie her up. it was one of the most calm days of the summer. then i went surfing and the waves were amazing! we scored perfect off shore head high waves and everybody was happy!
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the water was deep blue so i jumped in for a dive. so refreshing!
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then as i was driving around, a pod of 30 dolphins came to check me out.
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then they started to play with me. so i made u turns and started to play with them.
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they started jumping around. it was so cool!
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today the winds were super calm. two days ago was a different story. i seen this sailboat almost flip over. i wish i can give this guy the photo. cool!
well, panic over here continues. i just came home from waikiki and a lot of stores were closed, including duty free and mcdonald’s. tomorrow the whole island will be closed so the only thing to do is surf. i just hope the waves are big and challenging. sleep tight and see you in the morning.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide