i got up early this morning to check the waves. it was still small but i knew it was going to get big fast. i loaded up some boards in the truck and went to check diamond head. diamond head catches the east swell the best and with the 40mph winds, it makes the waves double in quantity, and double in size. i get there and it was building and building. nobody or no surfer in sight. i jump back in the truck and head more east because the more east you go, the bigger it gets. i pull up to my secret spot and nobody was out. i wax up, paddle out into the stormy surf. very challenging, but if you find the right wave, very good! i duck dove 40 big waves before i finally made it out. surfed a solid 1 hour session and caught 6 great waves. how big? don’t know. biggest i’ve ever seen there break. it was like a giant washing machine. and the current running left to right like a river. i see 3 guys on the rocks thinking about paddling out. i watched from the water and seen them try. no way. current takes them down the coast. see 2 more surfers and watch them try. no way. current takes them down the coast. i catch a few more waves and come in. great hurricane session!
the roads were empty. the governor told everybody to stay inside their house. i think everybody over reacted here in hawaii, but i guess being safe is better.
i take out a bigger board for the bigger waves. a Matchi 6’2 four fin that worked like magic. great paddling, great drive, and very responsive. felt pretty comfortable out there.
i come in, a few people were looking at me from their house windows thinking “that guy is either stupid or crazy.” it was windy, rainy, and just like a typhoon.
it’s 1:30pm and i can see the waves getting even bigger. going to go for another surf. where? don’t know until i check. and to all my friends who sent me emails and texts concerned about my safety in hawaii, thank you very much. this is what i’ve been doing for the past 22 years in japan and i’m stoked to be able to do it right in my back yard.
