i got this photo from holli who got it from candace. we all don’t know what it means? do you??
i have shells from all over the world all over my house. i can look at one of them and tell you exactly where i got it from. each one has meaning….
remember the day i wrote in my blog that i’d rather be diving? i think it was 2 days ago. well, after i seen this photo, i realized i was lying. i forgot i even got barreled that day at backdoor. i’m not joking… so when i received a 10 shot photo sequence from gordinho, i was pretty happy. diving was probably on my mind when i took off on this set. and when i was in the barrel, i was probably thinking to myself, “i woke up to dive, but here i am in the barrel.” dive? surf? barrel? all of the above….
**one last thing, because there aren’t too many surfing magazines on the magazine racks anymore, many photographers just called it quits. no magazines means no jobs. for me as a surfer and a photographer, i totally respect each and every one of you photographers that didn’t give up on us surfers. the glory days was for money, now, it’s for love. i know the industry is bad now so standing in the hot sun shooting photos is dedication. i respect that. for me as a photographer, i will never give up on surfing. i will shoot as much as i can, i will push surfing as much as i can, and i will work as hard as possible to turn things around. why? because i know a lot of kids that have dreams to become a professional surfer. i was given that dream and now it’s time to give back. and if it wasn’t for all the photographers that took all my photos these past 25 years, i wouldn’t be living the dream life i live. so let’s work together and make it happen!!! and again, thank you gordinho for sending me this photo. it makes me want to surf more, it makes me want to shoot more, and it makes me want to make people happy more. just like how you made me… mahalo….
**one more last thing. imagine going to a penthouse overlooking the whole waikiki and ocean surrounding it. imagine having a 5 star meal from one of hawaii’s best chefs being prepared right in front of you. imagine hearing music and laughs with friends. well, don’t imagine. a romantic dinner is happening tonight and for those of you who have been invited, see you there on the top of waikiki….
