check out these photos Uchiyama-san sent me from chigasaki! this was yesterday morning as a big typhoon was about to hit japan. gosh, i remember standing on that same bypass day after day checking the waves at chigasaki. 20 years ago, they didn’t have good wave forecasts so the only way to see if the waves came is by checking. i remember some days going up on the bypass and seeing the most amazing lineups with nobody out. huge beach closeouts as my friends and i use to paddle out. so seeing this photo brought back all the memories. thank you Uchiyama-san for the surf report. i’m glad you got perfect waves in hawaii last week and made it back to chigasaki just in time for some typhoon swells. keep on surfing!
surfing typhoon waves in japan is the easy part. getting out is the hard part. so much power and energy in typhoon swells. nonstop paddling with strong current. after duck diving over a hundred waves in less than an hour yesterday, i felt like i had the best workout in a long time. it’s times like this i wish i could have been in 2 places at the same time.
and yes, glad to get this report from a friend at a secret river mouth in japan. he told me that the heavy rain busted out the river again so the best sandbar of the decade is forming right now. i might be on the next flight to japan when another typhoon forms. see the river gushing straight out? well, the rocks and pebbles are getting pushed to the left forming a triangle sandbar. in a week or so, the river will stop flowing, then when the next typhoon sends swells, it will create a perfect long righthand barrel. this is what us river mouth surfers dream of! thank you M-san for keeping me updated. hope to see you soon.
i take off, bottom turn, and see the nicest wall in front of me. this is my view and this is why i love surfing so much.
and want to congratulate my grand nephew Mateus on his first birthday! happy birthday Mateus!!! you’re so cute!!!
