good morning. 7am here in beautiful wakayama. slowly making my way back to shonan. it’s been a long road trip and i’m ready for a vacation. but first, i want to surf a little more here in japan. i love cold water. haha.. just joking… but really, i’m going to go on a little surf trip in japan and enjoy these waves. i surfed ikumi yesterday morning and i felt so out of shape. after i did a few turns and kicked off on the beach, i felt tired. out of shape? yes… too much eating? yes.. so happy? yes…. anyway, going to head down to the fishing port to see what the fishermen are bringing in this morning. then maybe head down to isounora later to sit under an umbrella sipping my blue hawaii enjoying the view. i hope your having a great time where ever you are. be safe and have a nice day…..
**last saturday, we put on a tssc surf clinic down at ikumi beach in shikoku. gosh, i was so stoked on the turnout. matchi, yuichi, tony, seth, glenn minami, and i got together and tried to make some happy faces…..
tony taught roma and taku how to surf in hawaii last year. these kids are from kugenuma in shonan and the family drove down just for the clinic. roma is 7, and taku is 6 years old. they both love to surf and love the ocean. awesome kids….
before you surf, you should stretch out and warm up your body. this is so important so you lessen the chance of getting hurt. this is something i never do. i’m not a not a good example when it comes to this….
tony was rated the #1 surf instructor by honolulu magazine this year. he’s taught so many people how to surf. teenagers, adults, movie stars, and most of all, his own kids. oh, and he also taught me too. he taught me how to paddle out in 15′ surf with a 6’4….. tony’s the man..
there’s 3 simple steps in surfing. set your hands on the rail right about your chest line, jump up on 2 feet, then let go of the rail and stand up. pretty simple….
just seeing this made me happy…. the whole gallery coming up soon on GO-NAMINORI.COM…..
**thanks nishi-san from dove wetsuits for taking these photos with my camera. awesome….
