the past 3 days have been absolutely perfect! waves around the island from the 2 hurricanes. south, north, east, and west shores all good size with perfect conditions. i haven’t seen diamond head this good for this long in a while. i counted over 100 surfers out yesterday and today. everybody having fun!
and when there is no parking at diamond head, you know the waves are good and glassy.
this morning i got up early because i had a mission. first catch good waves, second, catch good fish. the conditions couldn’t have been better!
i pull up to tiger point and like usual, nobody out. surfed it for 2 hours with just the sharks. dream session!
i had a very important dinner tonight at a very good chinese restaurant with friends so i wanted to get some fish. all i had on my mind was 2 kumu’s. once i got 2, i was going to come in. the waves were big and the water was so murky. you couldn’t see anything for the first 30′, then it got clear. i blind dive a few times and luckily call in some nice size munu’s. it was pretty scary because i was diving by myself in the shark infested waters. i know the big tigers were watching me. i spear 2 in the head and speed back to the harbor.
i put them in a bag and took it to the chinese restaurant. my instructions were: clean um, steam um, put some ginger and onion on um, pour hot peanut oil over um, and serve um to us at exactly 7pm. everything went perfect!
this on the menu would cost $100. but tonight, it was free. live off the land, and respect the land. everybody happy, me too.
tomorrow more epic waves and my life in the ocean continues. have 7 people to take surfing tomorrow and i’m looking forward to the good waves and great smiles. good night.
