good evening. i paddled out early in the morning when it was still dark. the waves were 4-6′ and getting bigger. while i was waiting for waves, i was looking around and thinking to myself…. um… there are hard core dawn patrol surfers only out there for the glory, not the photo. then there are the guys that come out when the sun comes out just to get the photo. i stayed out for 4 hours so i guess i do both. one for the glory, and one for my job. if you ask me, getting a photo is easy. when the sun comes out, just take off on anything, go straight, or pull into a close out, and get the photo of your life. i’ve done it before and it’s so pretty easy.
i finally get a long barrel right before the sun peaked over the mountain. i was stoked, but it was still dark so no photographers on the beach. that’s when i thought to myself “hey, i give all these dawn patrol surfers credit. these guys are out there for one thing, “the glory.” no, their sponsors will ever know how dedicated they are. so that’s my job! from now on, i’m going to list the Glory Surfers from japan every time i see them out. that way, i hope it will get back to their sponsors on how hard their trying. or else, they will never know..
so this morning, i give much respect to Glory Surfers wade tokoro, reo inaba, kaisa kawamura, teppei tajima, and kaishu tanaka. i seen all you guys charging in the dark, not for the photos, but for the glory… that’s cool!!! and no, you won’t see photos of these guys on my blog because i’m surfing with them. other surfers might get better photos but photos don’t matter when your deep in the barrel looking out onto an empty white sandy beach with the cool morning mist in the air. to me, that’s surfing!!!
and because i respect these guys so much, i’m not going to post other surfers photos i shot when i came in no my blog till tomorrow….
