this morning i checked the buoy and WOW, BIG!!! the waves were coming up to 15′ by the afternoon so i thought i’d better get out there early. i grabbed my fisheye and swam out to off the wall right at first light. it was only me, and my good friend. that story coming tomorrow for Hawaii Surf Story 3. stay tuned…..
i told myself that i was going to shoot all day long but after i seen 6-8′ backdoor sets, i couldn’t resist. i grabbed my board and was out there!!!
i didn’t swim out and shoot from the water for a long time so i was excited. yeah, some freak 6′ sets broke on my head, but i kind of liked it. i liked the sunrise, i liked the sound of the whales underwater, i liked the perfect conditions, i liked the perfect lighting, and i liked the exercise….
i also liked the turtle swimming under me and this bodyboarder. that was pretty cool.
**all the water shots coming tomorrow. going to start writing the story now…
last, who forgot their camera and photos at the party? i woke up the next morning and found this on the table. i would love to keep it, but feel that returning it is the right thing to do. so please email me if this is yours.
**last, today’s early morning dawn patrollers was matchi nakayama at off the wall. and i seen kaisa kawamura at backdoor with a couple other japanese surfers. good job boys!!!
