it’s peak typhoon season in japan now and nothing is happening at this moment. i was planning to go to chase another typhoon from wednesday but thinking about not going. everybody is telling me the waves are flat and it’s still freaking hot. so now, i have to think of another plan.
look what’s brewing off the pacific coast of mexico. puerto escondido might be 10′ and barreling. watching this one closely as my attention shifts to the east. and then again, there is a solid 6′ south swell coming to hawaii on thursday. gosh, i’m so confused!!! but like always, i will decide that morning and take it from there. whatever happens happens.
diamond head from the lookout. multimillion dollar homes.
another view of diamond head from the lookout. i took this photo because i’m the kind of guy that likes to be 2 places at the same time. i want to be surfing on that perfect wave, and i want to be sailing on that sailboat to molokai. either one, i’m happy. both would be like heaven!
i had a great time surfing with Yano-san this afternoon. we surfed for over 3 hours and the waves were uncrowded and epic! it’s Yano-san’s first time in hawaii and his first surf session at a reef break. he caught over 30 waves and did a couple cool cutbacks! great surfing Yano-san!
from the parking lot, we seen a pretty awesome rainbow.
and always good to see surfer friends all around the island. what a great world us surfers live in.
finally downloaded the past few days of photos onto my computer. front row seat priceless moments coming tomorrow!
and yes, it was barreling where we were surfing today. check out my awesome view! and it was also getting bigger and bigger so tomorrow i’m looking forward to spending some time in the barrel again. good night!
