good evening. gosh, did somebody turn on the cold weather again. it’s so cold here again. freezing cold… i’m in my jacket and my feet are numb. surf? no way…. i was searching the internet today looking for some paradise island where i’m going to relax for a few days. no internet, no phone, and no people. can’t wait. trunks, slippers, blue warm water, and my mask. that’s all i’m going to need…. until then, i’m going to freeze here and eat eat and eat…. have a good night…
when i was down in shikoku, the waves were so tiny. so i borrowed tokura-san’s chris kaysen shaped paddle board and caught a few waves. it felt good just to be in the water…. thanks kenji sahara for taking this photo of me. thanks for making me look like i know what i’m doing. but i actually don’t know what the heck i was doing. what ever work right……
