The Last Amasan

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i still can’t believe what a great experience it was in Abu last month. just to see deep japanese culture still alive was cool. i know many people who want to become amasan’s. and if any of them do, i will respect them just like how i respect the ocean. it’s true harmony.
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Kyle and I were just tripping out on the experience. we tried to stay out of their way as the amasan of abu take their job so seriously. pure dedication japanese style.
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then we ended up at the market where the 60 or so amasan’s lined up to have their daily catch weighted. something you will never get to experience and something that won’t last forever. so if you get the chance, go for it now!
still haven’t had time to go through all the photos and videos. hopefully will get to it within the year. haha.
as for the south swell, it continues as everybody is so happy. i passed by diamond head yesterday evening and there was absolutely no parking. the waves were solid 5′ and perfect. i surfed 2 times and will do again today. it’s september and our summer just won’t end. enjoy it while you can!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide