good morning. wow, had such a cool day yesterday. surfed shonan 2x, which is pretty rare for me. i surf shonan once or twice a year and no way 2 sessions in one day. but i had fun because the waves were fun and i was surfing with friends.
i bumped into seino-san from click surf shop in tokyo. i haven’t seen him in a while. i use to go hang out over there and go on surf trips and drinking trips with them. gosh, those were the days. back then, i was pretty wild…. haha… but it was good to see seino-san in the water. what a small world….
my 2nd session, i had to put on my wet wetsuit. it was so cold and i was freezing before i even got into the water. the sun was out so i was lying on the beach trying to warm up. that didn’t work… so i just jumped in the freezing dirty water and tried to have fun. and i actually did….
came back and once i turned on my computer, kelia and alyssa gave me a ring on ichat. so we chatted for a while. for some reason, the video wasn’t clear. i think the reception was bad or something. anyway, seems like the weather and waves have been junk in hawaii. that makes me a little happier….
alyssa’s blog is pretty cool. she’s going to high school and loves to surf. i think this girl has the personality and looks to make it big. not to mention, she’s fluent in japanese. we rap once in a while and she speaks japanese much better than me. CHECK OUT ALYSSA’S BLOG….
**anyway, took video of my wonderful day yesterday. will post it later… have a great day!!!!
