brought back some yamari shirasu and ate a donbori for dinner last night. healthy, tasty, and fresh! i love it!
wanted to thank the Matsubayashi-san family for sending me this photo of our lunch at Hale Vietnam. hope you are all doing well in Gobo, Wakayama! and hope to see you again!
Glenn Minami shaping right now in Shikoku! order your magic board from TSSC and it will change your life like how it changed mine.
had such a great time today with the Doi-san family. we surfed some pretty big waves this morning and they did great! then us hungry surfers went to go eat lunch at Diamond Head Market and Grill. what an awesome day with a very happy family from Nara!
got some new coasters for my house. thank you Doi-san!
was glad to see Alyssa today down at the beach. a very hard working girl.
just got a new CD. Tauchi Junya @ Tokyo Moon. i can’t wait to listen to it! thanks Junya and hope to surf with you again in hawaii!
i listened to Junya sing quite a few times and he’s pretty dam talented.
on the rocks! gosh, i miss a nice glass of whisky with a ball of ice in it.
i surfed 2 rounds today. the waves kept on getting better and better. when i paddled out this afternoon at 1pm, the waves and conditions were like indonesia. solid 4′ sets and absolutely perfect conditions. the waves have been good this past 3 week so everybody is burnt out. not me! i surfed epic bowls with only 2 other locals out. had the best session in a very long time. glad to be back to paradise and couldn’t have timed it any better. another huge swell coming on wednesday!!! see you in the water.
