yesterday was another beautiful day and the best way to spend it was on the ocean! jumped on Mayuki and headed out to check out some secret spots. the good thing is every single spot was absolutely perfect! no wind, big swell, and perfect weather! score again!
it’s been years since i seen diamond head so perfect! i couldn’t believe how long and good the waves were.
seen another pod of dolphins again today. dolphins have been giving us really good luck.
and dolphins keep the big sharks away too.
i was driving home and couldn’t believe how hot it was!!! 34 degrees celsius is 93 degrees fahrenheit. OMG! i don’t remember the last time hawaii was this hot! by the way, i’ve been listening to 97.1 FM in hawaii and loving it! try it!
a friend invited me to his friends wedding party the other night. it was pretty cool seeing so many happy japanese celebrating a special moment here in hawaii.
always nice to meet new people. shaka girls!
ok, the waves the past 3 days have been epic! the perfect swell coming from the perfect south/west direction made every single surf spot absolutely perfect. it’s been over 10 years since i’ve seen so many barrels. i got up early and surfed a secret spot where i learned how to surf 35 years ago. only a few friends out and the waves were the best i’ve ever seen it break out there. had barrels of fun!
the swell continues and so does my sunburn. surfers have the greatest life of all!
