i’ve been surfing in town my whole life. people are saying this is the best swell in 10 years. here’s what i think. there has been consistent swell for the past 30 days. this past 4 days has been incredible. for size, i think last year was bigger. as for conditions, i don’t remember the last time the conditions were this good. luckily i got to take Mayuki out and check every spot on the south shore these past few days. and everywhere i checked, it was perfect. perfect swell direction, perfect winds, perfect size, and perfect everything. so in my eyes, this past swell was the best ever for me as a surfer on the south shore. surfing my secret spot yesterday made me realize how lucky i am to be living in hawaii. and if you ask me how this summer was? the best ever too! i am completely surfed out. so tired and burnt. i’m going on a boat for 12 days to indonesia this weekend and i really don’t have any energy left to surf. good thing half of us are divers because that’s where i want to be. welcome to the endless summer again!!!
bowls is crowded and if expect to get dropped in on. sometimes a simple sorry will work, sometimes it won’t.
this wave, the bodyboarder got the best of it.
good to see Daniel Jones out in the water surfing and shooting. good kid!
i’m going out the channel slowly watching the waves. i see a set coming as 10 guys start paddling wild for it. i spot my nephew Isaiah Moniz. inside my head, i’m saying “come on Isaiah, take it!!!” maybe he heard me as i see the other 9 guys back off. Isaiah takes off, puts his hand in the wave to slow down and wait for the barrel, and does it so flawlessly.
i see him pull into the barrel, i shoot my 400mm lens into the barrel. we are 50′ away but looking eye to eye. inside my head, i’m saying “good boy!” i just love this kid!
more south swells coming this weekend. surf your dream!
