a lot of people ask me “how’s your day?” so many thing happen each day that i can’t even keep up with myself. so for today, i’m going to write a journal.
6 am: wake up.
6:30 am: leave my house.
7:20 am: arrive north shore.
7:25 am: talk to kamio, see backdoor going off. grab my board.
7:30 am: in the water at backdoor waiting for 1 special wave.
7:50 am: here it comes. i take off, get barreled, then get barreled again.
8 am: i come in as the bodyboard contest starts.
8:05 am: i set up my fisheye underwater camera.
8:10 am: i’m jumping in the water thinking to myself how lucky i am to have a great life.
8:15 am: i’m swimming at ehukai shooting photos.
8:45 am: kairi noro takes off and gets barreled. next sequence much better photo. must wait for that.
9:05 am: pro bodyboarder megu-chan paddles out and gets a nice wonderful white wave!
9:15 am: i see kamio swimming in the ocean like a fish so i snap this photo.
9:45 am: i paddle in, say good bye to everybody, jump in my car, and head back to town.
11 am – 1 pm: work on my computer downloading the 349 wonderful photos i took today.
2 pm: pick up famous singer friend and longboard into dusk!
6 pm: come home. tired, and sunburnt. but happy!
7 pm: get ready for BIG FISH tomorrow. did i hear DIVING? umm… maybe, maybe not.
this is an average day for me. i do this 365 days out of the year and i ain’t complaining. sometimes i say “i’m tired” and that’s because “i’m tired.” but after all is said and done, i’m going to sleep a happy guy dreaming about what’s going to happen tomorrow. and nothing controls that, except for the ocean. good night….[:?????§???:]
