A Day Surfing Chiba….

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konnichi wa. pulled up to chiba yesterday morning to some good waves. surfed sunrise in the morning with hayato, zuccho, kenji, chiaki, and yumie. it was good to see everybody. the water is freezing in chiba so i had my full suit, gloves, and boots on. i was pretty warm but had a hard time surfing with all that rubber on. not really use to it. so half way through my session, i took off the boots and gloves. 10 minutes later, i had to go in because i couldn’t feel my feet and hands. they were numb…. tetsu urayama and kawabata-san were also out. gosh, these pro surfers in chiba surf really good out here. i had to take notes…

there is this place called “holiday inn”???? something like that. but it’s right in front of taito beach and has the best lunches…. i ordered the aji sashimi teishoku. oishikatta….

second round…. went to this river mouth. only 3 people were out. chiaki and mari-chan were two of them…

this is isumi river. freakin beautiful place….

loaded with oysters on the tetrapods…

hayato and i took turns picking them off the rocks with the screwdriver…

got to use the tools you find in your car. this ain’t the oyster picking set but you just have to make it work… and it worked….
**i took some pretty cool video that i’ll post when i stop having fun. but for right now, i don’t have time to sit down on my computer all day. too much fun here in chiba…. wanted to thank zuccho and yumie for the accurate surf report yesterday morning. and thank hayato and mari-chan for the awesome dinner, and jasmine and hide for letting us crash out at their castle on the top of the hill….. you guys are the bomb.. anyway, going surfing!!! have a nice day…

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide