i’m sorry to hear if you missed the fun south swell we had today. i was sitting on my computer early this morning in the dark when i felt the long gone trade winds coming back. i shut down my computer, grab my board, and head to my secret spot. i pulled up and as expected, nobody was out. moon setting on the right, and sun rising on the left. i was in the ocean surfing perfect head high waves all by happy self. did some yoga poses between sets on my board and i felt my mind, body, and soul reset instantly. this morning 1 hour session was my best session of the year so far….
then i grabbed my camera and headed to bowls for a private photo shoot, those photos coming tomorrow morning…
but for now, check these out….
it’s always good to see ben aipa. we have great talks about the past, present, and future. this man taught me a lot about surfing and coaching. thanks big ben!!!
the hawaiian with the shaka. i hope this photo makes the news tonight….
my friend makana is local. i see him out on the big days, the medium days, the small days, and even the flat days. this great surfer is dedicated!!!
tats or “eddie” is my friend since we were 13 years old. we were 2 crazy japanese nuts our whole life, and even till today. i’m amazed none of us ended up in jail. always good to see you tats!
