The Dream Journal: Day 2

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just got to kansai airport. landed and found out that my United Airlines flight got cancelled because of the typhoon. omg! going to try to get a flight out of here tonight so i don’t get stuck here. if i do, i’m sleeping on a chair at the airport because i have absolutely no energy to move.
here is my journal of day 2.
day 2. finally arrive at lunch time to Joystick.
waves overhead and hard.
wide swells on the ocean and very vey shallow inside.
first wave, barrel. stoked.
surfed again in the evening. nobody out. onshore one the outside and off shore barreling in the inside. welcome to indo.
Al and Travis goes out to spear some sashimi. good job.
watched a free dive documentary called Breathe. a story about William Trubridge. inspirational and awesome. slept good. no sunset tonight.
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Kyle’s an amazing diver and videographer. to follow 4 divers down and up and up and down all day on a single breath is crazy when you think about it. and i know his passion for spearfishing so it must be very hard. especially when we dive down to 60′ together, wait a minute, then i miss the fish. it’s like pulling into a long barrel and not making it out. haha. sorry Kyle.
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getting off the boat is always sad. it’s like a family saying goodbye.
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and traveling back and forth to these remote areas is tiring. this flight i took out of Sibolga seems like years ago. but it was only yesterday morning and i’m still very far away from home.
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we had a layover in Medan so we hired a driver and ate some Padang food. very very spicy hot! but a great meal after being on the seas for 11 days.
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and yes, a nice 1 hour foot and back massage for $9 at Medan airport. felt good to get pampered!
can’t wait to get home and sleep in my own bed!!!
have a wonderful evening!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide