good evening. if yesterday was a 100 point day, today was a 120 point day. bluer, sunnier, and prettier. gosh, you gotta love hawaii… small waves tomorrow so you know what that means? dive? umm…..
before i knew what was beneath the 8′ barrels at backdoor/pipe, i use to pull into closeout waves just for fun. but after freediving out there and actually seeing the how the reef structure is, i stopped doing that. it’s just not worth taking a chance. now days, i still see surfers pulling into big closeout waves and i know for a fact they don’t know what lies beneath. because if they did, they wouldn’t do that…
i swam out to off the wall and there were only 2 surfers out. rikiya kitada and tetta mori. i was waiting so long for a day like today. uncrowded, clean water, and blue sky. why? because i’m looking for a special photo that i finally got today. wait till you see it!! rikiya, you scored the best photo i took of the year so far. i’ll show it to you later….
2 shots after i took this one is pretty dam good! a keeper for sure!!! this is joe tanaka.
i seen a pretty cool shell on the bottom of the ocean. pick it up? let it go? pick it up? i picked up and now it’s on my shelf at my house. another keeper….
i’m sleeping early because i’m waking up at 4 am again tomorrow morning. i’m not wasting any of these beautiful days! see you in the water…
