good evening. i planned to shoot some small little sandbar today but when i pulled up to backdoor early this morning, the waves were good and nobody was out. forget the photos, i’m surfing!!! got some nice barrels and still can’t believe nobody’s around. lucky me!! more swells on the way and i’m looking forward on getting more and more barrels before this winter season comes to an end….
after surfing for 3 hours, i come in and had a decision to make. grab my camera and shoot backdoor? nah.. i wanted to do something different so i headed to haleiwa with the noro’s to shoot my first fisheye haleiwa session….
kairi noro is the wild one. his surfing is getting better and better and his personality is getting wilder and wilder. this kid is classic….
reika noro is doing super good in contests. her schedule this year is busier than mine. peru? california? wow!!!
this is behind the scenes at haleiwa. the water was clean, the sky was blue, and there were so many happy haleiwa faces…. what more could you ask for?
the turtles are so dirty out there so between sets, i decided to clean one. next time i’ll take my polish…
haleiwa is where i rode my first wave when i was about this kids age. one thing i will remember for the rest of my surfing life…..
**well, busy week coming up. north/west swells, great weather, and getting ready for PALAU!!!!