it’s so sad again watching the news reporting no water anywhere again. i’ve seen people with my own eyes buying way too much water. just pure panic and not thinking about others. these natural disasters really bring out the worst in people. i’m pretty bummed that i can’t even go to the store to buy a single bottle of water for myself. but sitting back and watching this panic makes me realize how i want to live my life, and how i don’t want to live my life.
yesterday was just a super beautiful day! morning and afternoon was just so empty in the ocean. i guess everybody was out buying up all the water? haha.
feels so good to ride a wave by yourself. and it feels so good to go right or left without running somebody over.
i still can’t believe how empty the ocean is. hey guys, the hurricane is coming on sunday! not yet!
i love my job, but it gets dangerous at times. i was riding on the side of Watanabe-san yesterday and i started yelling “yeah!!!” my mistake. he looked at me and if you look at me, either your board or body is coming straight for me after. in this case, it was board.
this is a fisheye lens so the board was about 6 inches from me. luckily i hit it away with my hand.
still can’t get over how crazy this birthday night was. i was actually out of control! one of those times i felt like jumping off the boat in the middle of the night. i hope i don’t get like that again at least for a few years.
i’ve been so busy these past 5 years or so that i haven’t had the quality time to spend with friends. i’m glad i had 12 days with my special friends giving each other the love and attention we all need. this is how it use to be when we all had simple lives.
i get asked all the time where the best diving is. well, i went on a boat trip to Komodo in Indonesia 3 years ago. i did a few scuba dives and couldn’t believe my eyes. i haven’t seen that many fish in my life!!! if i had my speargun, i would have been a millionaire in that week i was there. i kind of want to go back someday because i still can’t believe how much wildlife there was! just walls and walls of fish!
