wow, had an awesome day yesterday with Rikita-san, Ton-san, and Nori-san. once again surfers who just want to get better and better. they came to the right island, and they came to the right guy that will push anyone’s limits. we jumped into the ocean at 8:45am, and came back out at 1:30pm. we surfed non-stop wave after wave, totaling 80 plus waves between the 4 of us. everybody getting better and better each wave. it was awesome!
then us hungry surfers went to eat lunch at my favorite mexican. enchilada plate with horchata. good amigo!
then first dessert at bubbies ice cream. chocolate/mint mochi ice for me.
then straight into our second dessert at champion malasadas. it was my first time there so it was pretty exciting to try a new place that Rikita-san recommended.
and yes, it was great!!! cheaper than leonard’s bakery, and absolutely no line. i will go back there again for sure! then we went right into our second round. even better waves, and better conditions. what an amazing day.
Rikita-san came to hawaii about 10 times but this time was the first time he surfed here. he turned newborn surfer last year and got hooked. now there’s no turning back for him. he will live a happy and healthy life forever!
Ton-san is also hooked on surfing. after she caught her first super long wave, she paddled back out and said “omg, what is this???” i don’t think she knew there was such a long wave like this that existed. haha. welcome to your first reef point break!
sharing is caring. Rikita-san and Tomo-san morning session.
peace from lovely ala moana with beautiful diamond head in the back.
speaking of diamond head, Nori-san kept on smiling all day long. he said “wow, i can’t believe we are surfing and diamond head is right there.” yes Nori-san, only in hawaii! Nori-san blended in with the locals at bowls and caught some good lefts. he was so stoked!
everyday i meet new people. everyday i meet new friends. everyday we share and awesome experience. and everyday i am the luckiest guy in the world. awesome day guys. keep on surfing and see you next year!
