last month when i was in Taiji, we pulled up on the last weekend of the summer. cool, calm, relaxed, and just such a beautiful place. there was a pilot whale swimming with the kids. they let it out in the bay and it was swimming in and out of everybody. then they put him back in the cage and that was it. one week later, they started the dolphin/whale hunting. once again, a very touchy subject that i don’t want to get into right now.
i pulled down the net to try to get closer to the pilot whale. as it was swimming towards me, the staff looked at me and pulled up the net. sorry dude!
the other day i jumped off my board and almost ran over this girl. i didn’t even see where she came from? i said sorry, she said sorry, and that was it. in the ocean, nobody’s at fault because you’re pretty much on your own. no traffic lights and no policeman. keep peace!
how small is this world?? omg, i saw a video of Masa-san 4 years ago and was totally inspired. Masa-san is in a wheelchair but still surfs! i watched in that video him going to the beach and having so much fun. it was 4 years ago when i wrote that it would be so cool to meet him someday. i come out of the water, walk to my car, and there he was! Masa-san just got out of the water and was parked right next to me in the parking lot. OMG! a magical surfer moment for sure! so stoked! nice to finally meet you Masa-san!
