The Long Road: Planes, Trains, and Automobiles

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omg, i can’t believe just 2 days passed since i left hawaii. it seems like a month already but come to think of it, i was still on a boat in indonesia a month ago. time is just flying but at least i’m enjoying every minute of every trip. so before i forget, let’s back up to 2 days ago.
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i woke up at 4am, picked up Sakurada-san and Hashimoto-san. we had a wonderful time surfing. half way during our morning session, Sakurada-san’s surfboard hit him in the shoulder and he dislocated his shoulder. yeah, it popped out! i went up to him to see if he was ok and i watched him pop it back in. i could tell he was in pain but he said “no problem, i’m ok.” you’re ok? omg, should i call the ambulance? should i take you to the hospital?” he says “no, i’ll wait in here so please take Hashimoto-san for her last wave. i take Hashimoto-san for her last wave as she surfed excellent all morning. ok, it was time to go in and Sakurada-san didn’ t look like he wanted to go in. he said “i still want to surf!” what??? he couldn’t even raise his arm over his shoulder. i knew from looking at his eyes at he really wanted to surf more. we are men, so i understand that feeling. “ok, let’s GO!” we paddle back out, wait for a big set, he paddles, he stands up, and that happened to be his best wave all morning long. after that, he said, “ok, now i can go in.” i was really impressed. what a strong man with a strong heart and will. we eat an acai bowl and pastrami sandwich, i drop them off at their hotel at 11:30am, i jump on the harley and go straight to the airport. no shower, still sand on my feet, and still sunscreen on my face. i weave through traffic and make it there in record time: 13 minutes to be exact.
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i knew the flight was sold out and it would be a miracle to get a seat. i believe in miracles so i go and wait it out. 10 minutes before the flight leaves, i hear them call my name. Mr. Fukunaga, you are very lucky as you got the last seat on the airplane and it happens to be a business class seat. YEAH!
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i sit down, take a deep breath, and i’m going to japan to see my friends!
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always cool riding the airplane checking out all my secret surfing and diving spots from the air.
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i told myself before i left, “hey, you eat anything and everything you can. you lost weight so go for it!”
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this is my favorite part of the Delta flight. the dessert cart! she asked me which would i like? i told her “everything.”
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it was so good!
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the flight was the easy part. getting to nagoya to chigasaki was the hard part. 4 long train rides and very very crowded. i was running from platform to platform because i didn’t want to miss the party.
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i heard a few days ago about a party celebrating Saito-san’s new beach front mansion in chigasaki. i really didn’t think i could make it so i didn’t tell anybody. i pull up at the party and i was more surprised than them. i didn’t know this many of my friends would be there. i was so happy to be celebrating a big moment in so many peoples lives. it made me realize how lucky i am to have such wonderful friends in japan. and when i look deep into this photo, i realize that go-naminori has brought us all together. that’s awesome!
after 3 beers and 6 jack/cokes, everything went a blur. somehow i took some photos that will crack you up. will post later. from drunk haircuts, to gay kissing, to cork cock, to ikura, to falling bikes, and falling stars. it was an incredible night to remember.

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide