Surfing Shonan on Sunday

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surfing in japan was a bonus for me. i didn’t even plan it, didn’t even think it, or didn’t even want it. but when i heard there were waves and all my friends were going to surf, i planned it, i thought it, and i wanted it. getting ready at Rise and Shine in chigasaki.
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so stoked to have this good surf spot right in front of Matsuo’s shop. so convenient and such a good sandbar.
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it was sunday so everybody was saying it was crowded. this is not crowded, waikiki is crowded.
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Hikaru-san sat on the beach and took photos. thank you for that!
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then i even longboarded a few waves.
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Matsuo took this photo of us in the water. coming to shonan and surfing this time made me realize what the true meaning of what surfing is all about. it’s not about the big barrel, it’s about having fun and sharing the experience with your friends. i had a great time!
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in and out of the water, it’s all good. Hikaru-san, Matsuo, and Eri-chan. good surfing guys!
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shonan surfing life.
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thank you Ayumi-chan for letting me borrow your longboard on a few waves.
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Matsuo and Saito-san. two amazing and very kind friends.
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and it’s always nice to have my friends take care of me. thank you Eri-chan for the amazing breakfast!
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it was so good!!!
after this trip, i decided to try to spend more time in shonan. just take time, hang out, surf, eat, and have fun with my many friends. shonan is the surf capital of japan and i can’t wait to go back there again! thank you all for making my very short trip very happy and fun. keep on smiling!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide