surfing the north shore for 25 years has it’s goods and bads. the wipeouts, glory, the drop ins, the stitches, the fights, and all the aggression. been through all if it and i’m pretty stoked to still be in that scene. it keeps me level, updated, and excited. the 2010/2011 season has come to an end for me and i can just be grateful that i didn’t get hurt, didn’t get into any fights, didn’t get dropped in on, and rode some of my best waves of my life. oh wait!!! i got dropped in on once. hayato did it…. haha…
i had no idea this photo was on the web. my friend terrance found it and sent it to me. this was my last wave of this year on the north shore. it was at backdoor last week and i still remember this wave. it was just so round and perfect and i remember thinking to myself, “what another great year!!” thanks to SNN for running the photo, thanks to Aubuchon Photography for shooting it, thanks to Matchi for the magic 6’6, thanks to all my sponsors that have been supporting my dreams, and thanks to you all for checking out my blog….
kenji sahara gave me a cd of some photos he took of me this winter the night before he left. i finally checked out some photos and was super stoked that he got one of my best barrels of the year. it was a 34 shot sequence and i still remember pulling in at backdoor and coming out at off the wall. it was big, thick, and long. and now that i look back at it, i can be just as happy as i was during that moment. thanks kenji….
not too many people understand the feeling of getting barreled. it’s so awesome that i can’t even explain it. if you ever wanted to see me at my peak happiness, meaning, the happiest i could ever be, look at my face when i come out of a barrel. words can’t explain. i feel free, i feel satisfied, i feel happy, and i feel like i’m on the top of the world. it’s my own world that you dare not enter. haha… thanks kenji for the sequence. this is number 32 of 34 and also one of the top 5 smiles of my life…..
i’m going to palau now!!! the journey continues….[:?????§???:]
