i swear i meet the coolest people everyday. yesterday i met Kuroda-san. he’s from Tokyo and a surfer friend of Jikou-san and Tomo-san who i also took surfing in hawaii. just super energetic, and super stoked on surfing.
Kuroda-san’s been surfing for 10 years. yesterday, he asked me to teach him how to do a cutback. ok, easy. we start on the beach, take it into the water, and surf wave after wave with me on the side coaching him. just a few adjustments in knees, head, arms, board, and balance, he did his first ever cutback. then he did more and more and even did 2 cutbacks on one wave. after the session, he told me it was his best surfing performance, and best waves he ever surfed since he started 10 years ago. very happy words to my ears. i told him he is a reborn surfer!
i ask everybody how they started surfing. in Kuroda-san’s case, 10 years ago, a famous actor/singer named Kimura Takuya appeared on the cover of FINE Magazine. he saw it, thought it was cool, so he started surfing. haha. i clearly remember that because for us real surfers, we all thought it was a joke. it’s like putting Tom Cruise on the cover of Surfer Magazine. no way! professional surfers worked hard for media coverage as it was their job, then some actor who surfed a couple times was on the cover of that magazine? so when he told me that story, we started laughing and laughing. back then i thought it was stupid, but now that i met a surfer that got inspired by Kimura Takuya, i’m happy with that. one more surfer was born, and one more happy person in this world. everybody is happy now! thank you Kimura Takuya for probably inspiring millions of people!
after a 3 hour session, we went to eat local style food at a local style restaurant. Kuroda-san ordered the garlic chicken. smelt so good!
itadakimasu!!!!
every friday has the oxtail stew special. and that’s my favorite!
then we went shopping to get a costume for Kuroda-san. so if you seen this guy in waikiki last night, it was him. haha.
want to thank Maki-san for getting me go pro holder for my present! i can’t wait to go on another barreling trip and use it.
last night was crazy. almost dangerous to be exact. halloweens use to be safe and fun in hawaii. but it’s getting out of control. i seen things i wished i never seen last night. so bad that even i didn’t feel safe. bummer. next year i’m thinking of spending my halloween in japan because i heard things are getting really interesting! can’t wait!
