i’ve been surfing with a lot of surfers that are totally hooked on surfing. every one just trying to get better and better. surfing is really easy if you take it step by step. but if you try too hard to do things you aren’t capable of, you will surely get frustrated. learning the basics is very important because once you master it, you will get better pretty fast.
Kuroda-san’s been surfing for 10 years and really wanted to do a cutback. the first thing i told him was “ok, let’s start from the basics again. ride this wide and thick board. if you can’t do a cutback on this board, you can’t do a cutback on your own shortboard.” so let’s work wave by wave on doing a cutback, then you will now how it feels, then you will know how to do it over and over. just make sure to keep looking forward, and bend your knees.
then when you take your bottom turn, go down the wave, get speed, and do your cutback slowly with your head looking straight ahead.
yes, perfect! nice how you are keeping your head up and knees bent. great job!
then we surf our second round and i put him on a regular short board. i knew he was ready. then i see him doing 2 cutbacks on a wave! as he paddled back out, i could tell by the smile on his face that he was very happy. after surfing 10 years and finally doing multiple cutbacks is a greatest feeling in the world.
and yes, the waves were absolutely perfect! look how glassy it was! Kuroda-san told me it was his best session every since he started surfing. so amazing!
shaka brah! keep your head up, knees bent, and smile forever! hope to see you again Kuroda-san!
