good evening. the bad news still pouring in from japan. hard to keep my head up and scared to check my email or even answer my phone. a lot of unanswered questions floating around and watching the footage on the news is depressing. we are currently working on a way to help so please be patient. i’m going down into a deep place i’m not use to being and it’s hard to come out and see the light. i know that i promised to keep my blog positive and i’m trying my hardest but when i look at photos i took, how the heck am i supposed to be happy about it? or how am i supposed to make a joke out of it? i’ll try my best but please don’t take it the wrong way. my heart is still with japan and it won’t be fixed until everything goes back to normal. i hope sometime soon….
i went surfing with Kiuchi-san today. when i picked him up, i asked him how big does he want to go. he said head high. i knew town was waist high and north shore was 6′ so it was a hard decision. we ended up surfing solid 6′ laniakea. we were exchanging waves until a huge freak set came in and broke in front of both of us. it was time to go in…. hey Kiuchi-san, thanks for surfing with me today. i had a great time surfing and talking story with you. and please tell your wife thank you for being so kind in supporting your surfing. after surfing all day today, you’ll have a smile on your face the rest of your honeymoon here in hawaii. enjoy….
tomorrow i’m surfing all day again because it keeps my mind off other things….
have a great evening….
we checked out perfect vland and decided not to go out because 7 billabong kids camp pulled up, including my 2 nephews. then we checked sunset and it was 8′. Then we checked pipeline here and it was way to shallow. then to haleiwa which had too much current. surfing laniakea was the best choice for us because nobody was out. i just hope Kiuchi-san doesn’t think it’s that uncrowded like that everyday…
then we surfed kewalos in the afternoon. we checked it and there was nobody out. after 10 minutes or so, the school bell must have rang because the kids came out like an army of ants. hungry ants….
once again, let’s all pray for japan!
