Pray for Japan….

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good evening. what a day of healing. i have a friend here from japan that has lost someone in the recent tsunami, and also is missing people. we took this day to take our minds of the bad things and try to collect some power. here’s what we did:
left my house at 5 am. pick up at waikiki, stopped by ko’olina, then surfed tracks with nobody out, then drove to the north shore, stopped by haleiwa, pipeline, rocky point, sunset beach, v-land, then to romy’s for shrimp, then to valley of the temple, then to kailua beach, lanikai, then to makapuu, sandy beach, and ended our circle island tour at waiola shave ice before heading back to waikiki. now when japanese talk about looking for power spots in hawaii, i know exactly what they mean, and i know exactly where to go. i got power from the places we went, and i got power from my friends kind smile.

surfing tracks with a rainbow out in front was magical. then pulling up to haleiwa with another one made a great start to a great day.

until a week ago, i would be bummed out if i missed a good day at backdoor. it looked pretty good today. but now, getting barreled is the last thing on my mind. looking at all those footsteps on the beach made me think of the missing people trying to find their way home….

chinaman’s hat is called chinaman’s hat because it’s shaped as a chinaman’s hat….

kailua beach beautiful as usual…

magic at makapuu….

my home grown sandy beach….

walking over this bridge today felt the same like the time i walked over this bridge holding my grandpa osaki’s hand going to visit my grandma 30 years ago. i had chills running down my spine. this place is one of the most magical places in hawaii. this is what you call a power spot. usually when i go to a shrine, i light up the senko and pray for surf. from today on, i’m praying for japan…..
*last, our fundraising tshirts and stickers are going to be done tomorrow. more info on how to get it tomorrow morning. have a safe evening….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide