I can't move my leg???

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surfing with Masao-san and Mio-san was so fun! Masao-san’s been surfing for a while and it was Mio-san’s first time. she was so nervous when we got to the beach. we paddled out and she tried to stand up on her first few waves but couldn’t. i asked “why?” she told me that she couldn’t move her legs? what??? Mio-san told me that her legs couldn’t move. i thought that was impossible so i just pushed her on a big wave and yelled “stand up!!!” she stood up and her legs started moving again. haha. it was pretty funny but after i felt bad for laughing so hard. haha.
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surfing brings out the best smile in everyone. look how happy Mio-san was when she started paddling the board for the first time.
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after her legs started moving again, she surfed soooo well! i took her to the outside and she rode some big waves. a newborn surfer.
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the best place to be! in the ocean!
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Masao-san caught some great waves. we were in the inside watching him all morning. such a stoked surfer.
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this is the shot i always try to get. hawaiian surfing memories forever! Masao-san and Mio-san riding into the sunrise of diamond head.
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big guy, big smile.
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thank you both for a wonderful day of surfing and laughing. Mio-san, i’m glad your leg moves again! haha!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide