Most Dangerous JOBS!

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good morning, i still can’t believe we’re involved in another world. i turn on the tv and can’t even watch the news from japan anymore because we’re bombing libya. what about japan? what about iraq? what’s going on with this world? it’s pretty sad.
i finally got a chance to go back and check all my email from the time i went to palau. i wanted to say thank you to everybody around the world for the earthquake info, tsunami info, and worrying about our group. we were all fine sitting on the hilltop watching the ocean and waiting for the tsunami. lucky, it didn’t hit palau. i’m sure all of our minds were thinking about our home at that time. although traveling has its ups, it has its downs too. when tragic things happen, the only place you want to be is, your home…. anyway, wanted to thank everybody again….

as a surfer, you live a dangerous life. as a diver, you live a dangerous life. as a photographer you live a dangerous life. for me, it’s a triple threat. do i know the risks? yes. is it worth the rewards? yes. i always felt that it doesn’t matter what job you choose, if you love it, go for it… one person i know who loves his job more than anybody else is this person, Naoya Kimoto. dedicated to keep the hard core surf scene in japan alive, kinsan risks his life everyday. i shot this photo a few years ago at backdoor, the same place where a famous water photographer died a few days before that, the same place where it sent me to the emergency room twice, and the same place where kinsan recently got hurt. whether it’s a surfboard, a surfer, the wave, or the reef, backdoor shows no mercy. swimming out there and waiting in the impact zone is a high risk job that not too many people want to do. so every time i see a photographer out there, i give them the upmost respect. it’s dangerous, it’s deadly, but it’s a job. get well soon kinsan….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide