today was one of those days where you just have to know the ocean. the winds and weather was so bad this morning that most spots were junky and ugly. if you went anywhere from waikiki to makaha, you got skunked. but if you went around the corner to diamond head, you had fun. Kenji-san and Chisako-san are 2 cool surfers that love to surf!
so happy to be in the super green diamond head mountain. walking down the trail is tiring, but when you reach the beach, it’s all worth it.
from waikiki to makaha was super dark and ugly this morning. but diamond head was blue sky all day!
like i said, once you reach the beach, it’s all worth it! here is where the fun begins!
beautiful warm water and beautiful blue sky.
when we first paddled out, there were only a few surfers. lucky! here is Kenji-san and Chisako-san going for the same wave.
Kenji-san surfs really good. he’s one of those really happy surfers!
Chisako-san waiting for the next wave.
and it was a perfect one!
i can’t believe she walked the board!!! OMG, she just took a step and it was beautiful!
pure stoke! i always say “only a surfer knows the feeling!” and Chiaki-san knows exactly what i’m talking about.
another day of meeting 2 awesome surfers. thank you both for the wonderful surf, pho, and laughs.
normally when you look from the top, the waves look better than it really is. but today, it looked not the greatest from the top, but it was freaking awesome from the water. we scored!
hawaii is home and i’m really happy to enjoy it with everybody. surf your dreams!
