Black Tar Tako

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i feel pretty safe here in hawaii with our military, coast guard, police, and aloha. when i go on boat trips in indonesia, i know i have a great chance to be lost at sea. but in hawaii, people respond really fast. and most of the times they won’t give up until they find you.
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and with our military here, you’d be crazy to mess with our island.
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i caught a wave yesterday at diamond head. i rarely longboard out there but when i do, i get a different view of things. more time to appreciate the waves, the people, and the beautiful green mountain called diamond head.
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when you want to turn left, look left! not down!
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then as i looked to see if my camera was on or not, i looked down and fell down. haha. i didn’t realize i stepped on a piece of black tar oil on the beach. that’s why i have a black spot on my foot. shame on you boats that spill oil!
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still tripping out on the monster tako!!! imagine this monster was on my head trying to eat me. it was funny, but at the same time, pretty scary when i think about it. i’m going to eat every single piece of this big monster!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide