Perfect Summer Pipeline….

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leaving thailand and heading on a long journey back to hawaii. stop over in japan again, grab my luggage stored at the airport, then jump back on a plane to home sweet home. total of 18 hours including stopover. long, but can’t wait. this past month, i surfed like 4 times and i feel like a kid wanting it. i might have to surf with my nephews all day to get back into it. hassle with them for waves, drop in, and just have fun. give me a week and i’ll be back to normal. but for right now, i feel out of shape. eating too much food, with little exercise. but at least my teeth is clean and my body feels great from thai massages every day. sometimes twice a day. haha. i thought cozy in bali was the best in the world but i was wrong. can’t beat a good thai massage. itai but good. anyway, just checked the surf forecast and looking like north, east, and south swells on the way. see you in the water really soon…
*when booking a hotel on the internet, be careful. do your homework. i stayed in a couple of hotels and the photos you see on the website aren’t the same as the real thing. the first hotel i stayed at was awesome. the hotel i stayed at last night was more expensive, but was half the quality. far from the station, shitty service, and worst of all, bed bugs. shit, i got bites all over. i’m going to move to another hotel tonight. all 4 star hotels but some are better than others. when i get back to hawaii, i’ll give you the scoops on hotels and stuff in thailand. after 50 hours on the internet doing searches, i learned a lot about thailand. maybe too much.. haha…

this is a where i stayed the first night. at $60/night, it was worth every penny… it’s called the key bangkok hotel and if i come back here, i’m staying there again. clean, good location, and quiet.
*it was in july 2006 when an unexpected north/west swell hit the north shores of oahu. during that time, we were doing a photo shoot with kondo-san for surf1st in town. but when we heard the waves were up, shuji and i went straight to the north shore. i pulled up with my 6’4 and when i seen pipe, way too short… it was 6-8′ and barreling. so ended up surfing 4-5′ perfect rocky point… hope this summer is the same. can’t wait…. check it out….

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide